OREGON 

WALNUTS 


SOUTHERN   PACIFIC 


THE 
COLLEGE  OP 


x^' 


EDITED     BY 


CHIEF  DIVISION  OFHORTICULTURE 

OREGON  AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGE 

CORVALLIS,  OREGON 


PU  BLISH  E  D     BY 


GENERAL  PASSENGER  DEPARTMENT 
SOUTHERN  PACIFIC 

PORTLAND,   OREGON 


PFPT, 


Main 

Atria. 


Oregon  Walnuts 


HpHIS  book  is  com- 
-**  piled  for  the  purpose 
of  giving  accurate  infor- 
mation on  Walnut  Cul- 
ture in  Western  Oregon. 

tj  To  the  prospective  wal- 
nut grower,  it  will  be 
found  valuable  in  locat- 
ing and  establishing  the 
orchard  and  in  selecting 
varieties  of  trees. 

<JTo  the  present  owner 
of  a  walnut  orchard  it 
will  be  found  valuable 
for  the  technical  analysis 
of  grafting,  pruning, 
cultivating  the  orchard 
and  harvesting  the  crop. 


Walnut  Culture  in  Western  and 
Southern  Oregon 


The  culture  of  English  walnuts  is  increasing  to  such  an 
extent  it  bids  fair  to  become  one  of  the  principal  horticultural 
activities^of  the  state.  Walnuts  have  been  grown  in  the  state 
now  for  about  twenty-five  years,  there  being  one  commercial 
orchard  of  fifteen  acres,  twenty-one  years  old,  and  numerous 
scattered  trees  throughout  the  state  of  about  the  same  age. 
The  industry,  however,  during  these  twenty-five  years  has  had 
rather  a  checkered  career.  Many  of  the  early  trees  were  of 
types  that  were  not  suited  to  our  climatic  conditions.  Many 
trees  of  the  California  soft  shell,  or  Santa  Barbara,  type  were 
planted.  Nuts  were  often  bought  at  grocery  stores  and  planted 
by  interested  parties.  While  many  of  these  trees  grew,  rela- 
tively few  of  them  ever  bore  commercial  crops  of  fruit,  at  least 
not  regularly. 

About  ten  years  ago,  walnut  planting  assumed  almost  boom 
proportions  and,  consequently,  many  of  the  trees  planted  were 


Rolling  land  best  for  walnut  growing. 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


Walnut  trees  in  their  prime. 

of  the  tender,  inferior  grades,  and  the  winter  of  nineteen  eight 
fortunately  destroyed  a  large  percentage  of  such  trees.  With 
the  introduction  of  superior  French  strains,  the  industry  became 
firmly  established,  until  now  we  have  thousands  of  acres  just 
coming  into  bearing,  producing  nuts  that  are  selling  as  high 
as  thirty- five  cents  per  pound.  A  list  of  some  of  the  larger 
plantings  is  given  in  the  back  of  this  bulletin. 

The  present  consumption  of  the  English  walnut  in  the 
United  States  is  only  about  50,000,000  pounds — this  being  only 
about  one-half  pound  for  each  person  in  our  great  country. 
Of  these  nuts,  22,026,524  pounds  are  raised  in  the  United  States 
and  during  the  past  few  years  an  average  of  about  30,000,000 
pounds  has  been  imported.  Of  these  22,026,524  pounds  that 
are  produced  in  this  country,  California  is  producing  21,432,266 
pounds,  Mississippi  66,492  pounds,  Oregon  79,060  pounds,  and 
all  other  states  448,706  pounds.  There  are  at  present  in  the 
United  States  914,270  bearing  English  walnut  trees,  while 
806,413  are  still  too  young  to  bear.  This  is  according  to  the 
United  States  census  of  1910.  While  Oregon  has  a  very  small 
percentage  of  bearing  walnut  trees,  it  has,  nevertheless,  about 
one-fourth  of  the  young  trees  of  the  entire  United  States  that 
have  not  reached  bearing  age. 

The  most  encouraging  fact  concerning  English  walnuts  is 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


that  the  consumption  of  this  food  product  in  the  United  States 
during  the  past  ten  years  has  practically  doubled.  Ten  years 
ago  we  were  raising  somewhat  over  10,000,000  pounds — the  last 
census  gives  us  22,026,524  pounds.  In  1902  we  were  importing 
over  12,000,000  pounds,  while  in  1912  we  were  importing  from 
26,000,000  to  37,000,000  pounds.  It  has  been  said  by  some 
that  we  will  have  less  and  less  foreign  competition.  I  hardly 
know  upon  what  facts  such  statements  are  based,  since  the 
imports  have  increased,  if  anything,  faster  than  the  home  pro- 
duction. It  would  not  be  safe  for  walnut  men  to  feel  that  they 
have  no  competition.  The  pecan,  filbert  and  almond  all  enter 
into  some  competition  against  the  English  walnut.  However, 
it  should  be  a  very  easy  matter  to  encourage  the  American  peo- 
ple to  use  more  nuts  in  their  diet.  In  fact,  they  are  already 
doing  that  without  any  special  effort  on  our  part. 

The  present  outlook  for  the  expansion  of  the  industry  is 
very  promising.  Undoubtedly  the  American  public  will  consume 
many  times  the  present  output  and  very  little  concern  need  be 
given  by  the  present  producer  for  the  marketing  of  this  product. 
In  a  few  years,  however,  this  sub- 
ject will  need  special  attention. 

Choosing  the  Orchard. 

Location :  The  climate  of  west- 
ern and  southern  Oregon  is  ideal 
for  the  production  of  the  English 
walnut.  It  more  nearly  approx- 
imates the  climate  of  Europe  and 
Asia,  where  these  nuts  are  pro- 
duced abundantly,  than  any 
other  section  of  the  United 
States.  In  other  words  we  have 
very  few  extremes  of  temper- 
ature as  regards  either  heat  or 
cold.  The  moisture  supply  is 
generally  ample.  Where  the  Protecting  the  grafts  in  paper 
improved  French  strains  are  bags  until  the  scions  sprout. 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


A  well  developed  walnut  tree. 

planted,  very  little  damage  will  result  from  frost.  In  choos- 
ing the  orchard,  however,  one  should  bear  in  mind  that  good  air 
drainage  is  essential  and  that  if  the  trees  are  planted  in  frost 
pockets  there  will  be  damage  during  certain  years,  despite  the 
fact  that  the  French  strains  bloom  so  late.  In  some  of  the  moun- 
tain sections,  there  is  a  possibility  that  the  extreme  rains,  both 
in  the  spring  and  fall,  might  have  an  influence  on  the  yields. 
The  walnut  should  not  be  planted  where  there  are  extremes  of 
heat  in  summer.  This  tends  to  cause  a  burning  of  the  nuts 
and  will  often  result  in  a  poorly  filled  nut. 

Soil:  The  walnut  is  a  deep  rooted,  heavy  feeding  plant  and 
should,  therefore,  be  planted  in  deep,  rich,  moisture-retaining 
soils.  There  are  many  types  of  soil  found  in  western  and  south- 
ern Oregon,  and  undoubtedly  we  will  find  as  time  goes  on  that 
certain  soils  that  have  heretofore  been  held  as  not  suitable  for 
walnut  culture  will  be  found  to  be  producing  commercial  crops. 
The  red  hills  and  river  bottoms,  at  the  present  time,  are  the 
principal  producers  of  this  crop,  and  where  these  soils  are  deep, 


OREGON    WALNUTS  7 

the  trees  are  making  magnificent  growth.  While  few  walnuts 
are  grown  as  yet  on  the  heavier  clays,  there  is  a  possibility  that 
if  the  American  Black  nut  is  used,  for  a  root,  there  will  be  a 
possibility  of  producing  heavy  commercial  crops. 

The  surface  soil  should  be  friable  and  easily  tilled,  and  one 
which  can  be  formed  easily  into  a  good  heavy  dust  mulch  for 
retaining  moisture.  The  sub-soils  should  be  of  such  a  nature 
that  roots  can  penetrate  and  get  plenty  of  food  and  moisture. 
Avoid  rock,  coarse  gravel  soils  and  extremely  heavy  clays.  The 
deeper  the  soil  is,  the  better.  It  is  a  waste  of  money  to  plant 
walnuts  on  soils  which  are  only  from  two  to  four  feet  in  depth. 
While  young  trees  will  thrive  on  such  soils,  you  cannot  hope  to 
produce  large,  healthy,  heavy  producing  trees  under  such  con- 
ditions. 

Soil  drainage  is  a  question  that  should  be  looked  into  very 
carefully,  as  the  average  root  used  will  not  stand  an  excess  of 
moisture.  The  gently  rolling  locations  are  always  preferable 
to  flat  areas,  as  the  former  are  more  apt  to  give  good  soil  and 
air  drainage. 


The    scions    have 
sprouted  well. 


Bags  removed,  showing 
sprouted  scions. 


8 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


Propagation. 
Sprouting  of 
Seed:  There  are 
several  methods 
used  in  preparing 
the  seed  for  sprout- 
ing. Some  growers 
have  practiced 
planting  in  the  fall 
in  the  open  ground 

in     the      nursery. 
Franquette  Walnuts  „.  , 

There   are   several 

difficulties  in  this  method.  One  is  that  the  nuts  do 
not  often  germinate  over-well.  In  fact,  some  of  the  types  of 
black  walnuts  may  remain  in  the  ground  two  years  before  they 
germinate,  and  there  is  some  danger  of  decay.  However,  where 
it  is  desired  to  grow  seedling  English  walnut  trees,  it  is  the 
common  practice  of  our  nurseries  to  plant  the  nuts  in  open 
ground  in  the  nursery  row  in  the  fall. 

Another  danger  to  be  watched  out  for  is  that  of  squirrels. 
If  given  the  opportunity,  they  may  purloin  the  entire  patch. 

Other  growers  have  practiced  stratifying  the  seed  in  boxes 
in  sand.  When  this  is  done  the  nuts  are  often  stratified  in  the 
fall.  Care  must  be  taken,  however,  that  the  sand  does  not 
become  too  wet,  for  if  it  does,  the  nuts  will  mold,  and  there  is 
danger  of  decay.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  sand  is  allowed  to 
become  too  dry,  the  nuts  will  not  germinate.  One  of  the  most 
satisfactory  methods  is  to  wait  until  late  winter,  or  early  spring, 
say  in  February.  Choose  the 
warm,  sunny  side  of  some  build- 
ing. Lay  down  a  few  2x4's  and 
upon  these  put  boards.  Spread 
on  the  boards  a  few  inches  of 
moist  sand — then  spread  the  nuts 
on  this  moist  sand  and  cover 

them  with  additional  sand.     If 

Bagging  of  trees  in  nursery 

Sufficient  sandy  SOll  IS  not  to  be          as  soon  as  they  are  grafted. 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


Walnut  trees,  eight  years  of  age. 

had,  the  nuts  can  be  covered  with  wet  burlap  or  blankets. 
Care  should  be  taken  that  if  extremely  heavy  rains  come, 
some  boards  are  laid  over  the  bed  to  shed  the  water  and 
keep  the  soil  from  washing  away.  The  success  of  germina- 
tion by  this  method  has  been  phenomenal  in  many  cases,  espe- 
cially where  California  Black  seed  has  been  used. 

In  the  early  spring  these  nuts  will  germinate  and  send  out 
good  vigorous  sprouts.  Before  transplanting  in  the  open  sand 
one  should  choose  good  rich  ground  for  the  nursery.  This 
should  be  plowed  and  harrowed  very  thoroughly,  so  that  it  con- 
tains no  lumps.  The  ground  should  then  be  furrowed  and  the 
young  sprout  walnuts  carefully  transplanted  in  rows.  Care 
should  be  taken  in  drawing  the  dirt  up  around  the  transplant 

not  to  break  the  sprout.     One 

needs  to  be  very  careful  during 
the  first  few  cultivations  not  to 
injure  the  young  shoots,  as  they 
are  about  as  tender  as  asparagus 
shoots,  and  if  the  ground  is 
lumpy  there  is  danger  of  the 

lumps  being  thrown  up  against 
Low  method  of  heading  trees  ° 

and  good  system  of  staking,      them   and   injuring   the   shoots, 


10 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


OREGON    WALNUTS  11 

thus  making  them  worthless.  If  the  ground  is  rich  and  well 
prepared,  the  young  trees  will  soon  start  into  vigorous  growth, 
and  they  should  be  given  the  best  of  tillage  and  hand  hoeing, 
so  as  to  keep  them  growing.  It  will  be  advisable,  in  many 
cases,  to  stake  the  young  trees  to  keep  them  from  becoming 
injured. 

If  the  trees  are  given  good  care,  the  large  majority  of  them 
should  make  sufficient  growth  in  one  season  so  that  they  can 
be  successfully  grafted  the  following  spring. 

In  grafting  English  walnuts,  it  is  imperative  that  one  choose 
good  scion  wood.  This  can  generally  be  found  on  all  trees  pro- 
ducing vigorous  one-year-old  wood.  Some  of  the  two-year-old 
wood  will  suffice.  The  tip  growth  is  undesirable,  as  it  is  too 
soft  and  spongy.  The  wood  which  makes  the  best  scion  should 
not  contain  over  one-half  its  diameter  of  pith.  Scion  stocks 
can  be  cut  a  foot  or  more  in  length.  These  can  be  stratified  in 
moist  sand  or,  preferably,  can  be  put  in  cold  storage  plants, 
where  they  are  stored  on  ice.  They  can  be  kept  there  at  least 
until  needed.  In  fact,  scions  in  this  way  could  be  kept  for  some 
of  the  very  late  English  walnut  trees  which  do  not  come  into 
activity  until  June.  Care  must  be  exercised  to  keep  the  buds 
absolutely  dormant,  as  a  sprouted  scion  is  worthless. 

Grafting  the  Walnut  Trees:  There  are  many  large  black 
walnut  trees  scattered  over  the  state  which  should  be  top-worked 
to  the  better  strains  of  English  walnuts.  In  four  years  these 
trees  could  be  made  to  be  extremely  productive. 

Walnut  grafting  is  exceedingly  difficult  and  I  would  sug- 
gest that  if  you  have  very  much  grafting  to  do,  either  in  the 
nursery  rows,  or  in  top-working  of  trees,  you  either  work  with 
someone  who  is  considered  an  expert  in  this  class  of  work,  or 
employ  someone  who  has  demonstrated  that  he  can  do  the  work 
successfully.  The  most  successful  work  in  this  state  has  been 
done  by  Mr.  George  G.  Payne,  of  Campbell,  California.  The 
methods  used,  however,  are  outlined  in  the  following  descrip- 
tion, taken  from  directions  given  by  him : 


12 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


"For  scions  select  round  wood  with  buds  not  too  far  apart. 
Use  upright  or  horizontal  wood  and  never  dropping  wood. 
Avoid  terminal  buds.  Spurs  on  young  trees  a  foot  or  less  in 
length  make  good  wood. 

"When  possible,  leave  scion  wood  on  trees  until  two  or  three 
weeks  before  they  show  signs  of  starting,  which  would  be  about 
April  first  to  tenth.  Cut  in  lengths  from  twelve  to  fourteen 
inches  and  stratify  carefully  in  sand. 

"Before  grafting,  wait  until  buds  on  stock  show  signs  of 
bursting.  If  placed  in  position  before  the  sap  starts  they  may 
dry  out.  One  can  start  in  earlier  on  English  walnuts  than  on 
Blacks,  but  Blacks  will  permit  a  longer  grafting  season. 

"Bright,  extra  sharp  tools  are  necessary.  Good  knives  are 
the  IXL,  the  Henckel,  budding  knife,  large  size;  Joseph 
Rogers'  iron-handled  grafting  knife;  and  a  shoemaker's  knife 
is  very  desirable.  For  a  splitting  knife  use  Rogers'  butcher 
knives.  A  splitting  maul  like  an  old-fashioned  potato  masher 
is  good,  dimensions  11x41/2x3.  Hickory  or  hardwood  wedges, 

six  inches  in  length,  of  different 
widths,  are  desirable  for  split- 
ting. Have  the  edges  a  little 
thinner  than  the  center.  Have  a 
sharp  saw.  Use  oil  stones,  em- 
eries, etc.,  to  keep  tools  always 
sharp. 

"Never  make  a  concave  cut  on 
scion.  Choose  a  piece  of  wood 
having  two  eyes  of  straight 
growth.  Cut  off  2^/2  inches  be- 
low bud,  with  slanting  cut.  Turn 
lower  bud  upward.  Begin  with 
knife  on  opposite  or  a  little  lower 
than  bud.  Cut  just  through  the 
bark  to  wood.  Continue  down- 

i      u-  u     ward,    very    gradually    cutting 
A  system  of  heading  back  which  .  .  . 

should  be  avoided.    Instead  of     deeper,  until  two-thirds  of  cut  is 
l!mbsaVe  at  l6aSt  ^    completed.    The  remaining  one- 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


13 


A  well  handled  orchard. 

third  is  cut  considerably  more  abrupt.  Turn  the  scion 
over  and  treat  the  other  side  the  same.  Have  scion 
a  little  thicker  on  the  outside.  After  scion  is  cut,  prepare  stock. 
Saw  of f  straight,  then  take  butcher's  knife  and  split  very  lightly 
through  center,  then  bear  heavily  on  handle  of  knife  and  split 
the  opposite  side  of  stock.  Now  drive  in  wedge.  One  must 
now  carefully  fit  stock  to  scion.  It  is  generally  necessary  to  cut 
out  a  little  wood  on  each  side  of  split  in  such  a  way  that  when 
wedge  is  released  the  scion  is  caught  firmly  and  perfectly.  The 
scion  should  be  inserted  as  with  other  grafts,  so  as  to  bring 
growing  layers  together.  Next,  stuff  newspaper  down  in  the 
chink  between  the  two  scions.  Now  wax.  Cover  entire  cut 
surface.  It  is  fatal  to  leave  it  exposed.  It  is  sometimes  neces- 
sary to  rewax  three  or  four  times.  If  scion  buds  are  slightly 
covered  with  wax  it  will  do  no  harm.  After  waxing,  tie  an 
inflated  paper  bag  over  graft,  leaving  an  inch  or  two  for  scions 
to  grow. 

Nursery  Grafting. 

"The  work  is  done  at  the  same  season  as  top-working.  When 
possible,  avoid  doing  the  grafting  in  the  early  morning  hours,  or 
following  a  heavy  rain,  for  at  such  times  considerable  bleeding 
may  take  place. 


14  OREGON    WALNUTS 


Young  walnut  orchard  with  cherry  fillers. 

"Pick  away  the  dirt  from  around  the  tree.  With  a  sharp  band 
shear,  cut  off  the  tree  about  two  inches  above  the  ground.  In 
making  the  cut  always  have  the  blade  down.  Then  with  a 
shoemaker's  knife  make  a  vertical  cut  from  an  inch  to  an  inch 
and  one-half  in  length,  the  cut  terminating  at  the  stub  of  the 
stock.  The  cut  is  very  shallow  at  the  lower  end  and  ends  deeply 
at  the  center.  Now  make  a  cut  at  right  angles  to  the  first.  The 
result  will  be  that  you  will  take  out  a  right-angled  piece  from 
the  stock,  the  cut  being  broad  and  deep  at  the  top  and  shallow 
and  drawn  to  a  point  at  the  lower  end. 

"A  scion  is  so  cut  as  to  fit  this  right-angled  notch  in  the 
stock  very  closely.  First  cut  the  scion  off  sharply,  then  make  a 
cut  at  right  angles  to  this,  which  will  be  from  an  inch  to  an  inch 
and  one-half  in  length.  Draw  it  in  slightly  toward  the  point. 
If  the  scion  and  stock  do  not  fit  absolutely  smooth,  make  new 
cuts  until  you  get  a  true,  smooth  connection.  Now  take  some 
coarse  twine  or  yarn  and  wrap  the  two  together  securely, 
finally  tying  with  a  half  hitch.  This  being  done,  wax  over  very 
carefully,  probably  at  least  two  or  three  times,  as  per  directions 
given  for  cleft  grafting.  Use  paper  bags  and  treat  as  in  pre- 
vious method." 

Mr.  Fred  Groner  of  Hillsboro,  Oregon,  who  has  done  a 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


15 


Top-working  the  American  Black  to  the  English 

great  deal  of  successful  walnut  grafting,  states  that  he  is  able  to 
get  a  larger  percentage  where  the  nursery  trees  for  grafting  are 
cut  off  at  the  point  where  the  wood  begins  to  get  soft.  He  has 
also  found  that  a  beveled  knife  is  superior  for  the  work.  How- 
ever, since  the  mushroom  root  rot  is  making  its  appearance,  it 
may  be  better  to  follow  some  of  the  California  methods  and 
graft  the  trees  well  above  the  surface  of  the  ground.  We  would 
also  caution  the  walnut  grafters  to  cut  their  scions  so  that  there 
is  a  long  surface  of  contact. 

The  grafting  wax  that  is  being  used  very  successfully  is  the 
following : 

Resin,  5  pounds ;  finely  pulverized  charcoal,  %  pound ;  bees- 
wax, 1  pound ;  raw  linseed  oil,  1  gill. 

After  melting  the  beeswax  and  resin  over  a  fire  that  is  not 
too  hot,  add  the  charcoal,  stirring  steadily,  then  add  the  oil. 
After  moulding  the  bricks,  it  should  be  placed  in  greased  pans. 
As  one  needs  to  use  the  wax  it  may  be  broken  off  in  lumps  and 
melted  in  suitable  dishes.  It  should  be  in  liquid  form  when 
applied. 

Establishing  the  Orchard. 

In  establishing  the  walnut  orchard,  the  first  point  to  study 
carefully  is  the  choosing  of  the  trees.  There  are  two  types  of 


16 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


Walnut  tree  with  a  nice  spread 
but    headed    a    foot    too    high 


trees  being  planted  in  the  North- 
west at  the  present  time — name- 
ly, the  seedling  and  the  grafted 
trees.  The  grafted  trees  are  gain- 
ing in  popularity  very  rapidly. 
It  is  hard  to  find  men  who  have 
tried  both  seedling  and  grafted 
trees,  who  do  not  favor  the  graft- 
ed ones.  I  have  found  only  a  few 

men  who  have  tried  the  grafted  trees,  who  are  in  favor  of  dis- 
carding them  and  taking  up  the  seedlings,  while  a  great  many 
men  now  growing  both  grafted  and  seedlings  say  that  if  they 
were  planting  again  they  certainly  would  plant  grafted  types 
exclusively. 

The  statement  is  often  made  that  the  seedling  orchards  are 
worthless.  This  statement  is  altogether  too  strong.  There  is 
no  question,  in  my  mind,  that  some  of  the  seedling  orchards  that 
have  the  right  type  of  seedlings  will  prove  to  be  very  attractive 
investments,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  the  proper  type  of  grafted 
trees  is  without  doubt  the  best  investment  to  make. 

The  advantages  of  the  grafted  tree  are  that  you  will  have 
a  more  uniform  orchard,  the  trees  will  come  into  bearing 
younger,  and  the  product  is  very  much  more  uniform  than  can 
be  expected  from  the  seedling  orchards.  Many  of  the  seedling 
trees  bloom  or  come  to  foliage  too  late  to  procure  good  crops. 
Others  bloom  so  early  that  they  are  invariably  injured  by  the 
frost.  Walnuts  will  bloom  over  a  period  extending  from  early 

April  until  the  middle  of  July. 
The  very  early  trees  are  general- 
ly caught  by  frost,  and  it  is 
doubtful  if  trees  that  come  out  as 
late  as  June  15  will  mature  their 
crop.  Trees  coming  out  from  the 
^*^  first  to  the  middle  of  May  are 

Low  headed  type  of  Walnut  Tree.  ver-v  desirable.  Some  trees  are  too 
Very  satisfactory  if  tied  well,  weak  physically  and  are  valueless. 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


17 


Young  walnut  orchard  with  prune  fillers  and  garden  truck. 

It  must  not  be  assumed  that  there  is  no  fluctuation  in 
grafted  trees,  as  grafted  walnut  orchards  will  probably  vary 
to  about  the  same  extent  that  the  apple,  pear,  plum  or  orange 
will  vary.  On  the  other  hand,  there  are  many  seedling  orchards 
that  will  not  produce  over  sixty  per  cent  of  good  trees. 

Many  of  the  planters  of  walnuts  five  or  six  years  ago 
attempted  to  purchase  grafted  trees  in  large  numbers,  but  found 
it  impossible  to  do  so.  The  trees  were  not  for  sale  at  any  price. 
Again,  some  of  the  early  grafted  trees  were  very  disappointing. 
They  were  imported  French  trees  that  had  been  grown  in  cold 
frames  and  flower  pots  and  were  stunted,  inferior  trees.  The 
introduction  of  such  stock  did  very  much  to  prejudice  some 
of  our  early  planters  against  the  grafted  trees. 

As  regards  whether  to  plant  seedlings  or  grafted  trees, 

very  careful  judgment  must  be 
used.  Where  seedling  trees  are 
planted,  the  nut  should  be  chosen 
from  an  isolated  tree  or  an  or- 
chard where  one  variety  is  grown. 
If  nuts  are  chosen  from  mixed 
orchards,  'where  cross  pollina- 
A  Well  Headed  Walnut  Tree  tion  has  taken  place,  one  must 


18 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


expect  variation,  for, 
as  the  old  saying  is, 
"Blood  will  tell."  The 
more  crosses  you  have, 
the  more  variations  one 
must  naturally  expect. 
In  former  days,  much 
was  said  concerning  the 
generation  of  trees.  The 
first  generation  consist- 
ed of  trees  from  nuts 
which  were  taken  from 
the  selected  trees.  The 
second  generation  were 
the  trees  which  resulted 
from  these  nuts.  It  was 
formerly  believed  by 
some  people  that,  ow- 
ing to  climatic  and  soil 
conditions  of  our  state, 
these  second  genera- 
tion trees  would  pro- 
duce nuts  superior  to 
the  mother  trees,  and 
superior  to  any  trees 
which  would  follow 
from  mixed  pollination. 
The  walnut,  however, 
follows  the  same  gen- 
eral rules  as  do  other 
plants ;  namely,  that 
when  you  have  seed- 
lings, you  may  be  fortunate  enough  to  secure  a  few  superior 
to  either  parent  in  some  respects,  but  a  large  majority  of  the 
nuts  will  be  inferior  to  either  parent.  It  is  only  by  selecting 
these  isolated  seeds  that  have  not  been  cross  pollinated,  from  a 


Varieties  of  Oregon  grown  walnuts. 
(1)  Mayette  (2)  Meylan 

(3)  Parisienne  (4)  Parry 

(5)  Chaberto  (6)  Franquette 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


19 


hardy  French  strain, 
such  as  the  Franquette, 
that  one  can  expect  to 
secure  good  seedling 
stock. 

Where  grafted  trees 
are  preferred,  one 
should  certainly  know 
something  about  the 
pedigree  of  the  trees, 
for  unless  the  roots  are 
vigorous  and  the  scions 
selected  from  trees  of 
known  value,  the  graft- 
ed trees  will  probably 
be  worthless. 

Some  men  are  com- 
b  i  n  i  n  g  seedling  and 
grafted  orchards  in  this 
way.  Seedling  orchards 
are  first  planted  and 
then  the  percentage 
which  are  inferior  are 
grafted  over  to  selected 
scions.  Many  of  these 
trees  in  this  way  can  be 
made  to  become  very 
productive  trees,  but 
with  others  the  vitality 
is  so  poor  that  it  does 
not  pay  to  attempt  to 

do  much  with  them.  Eventually  we  are  going  to  find  out  what 
are  the  four  or  five  best  varieties  or  strains  for  this  section  of 
the  country,  and  as  soon  as  that  is  determined,  a  large  majority 
of  our  trees  will  be  grafted  to  these  best  strains. 

There  are  three  types  of  stock  being  used  in  the  Northwest 


Nuts  at  top  and  bottom  are  result  of  seedlings 
from  grafting  of  pointed  Franquette  and 
Round  Mayette  in  center. 


20  OREGONWALNUTS 

at  the  present  time — the  Northern  California  Black,  the  Amer- 
ican Black,  and  the  English.  There  are  many  other  types  that 
possibly  have  been  used  in  a  limited  way,  such  as  the  Southern 
California  Black  and  various  hybrids.  Undoubtedly,  we  are 
going  to  use  more  than  one  stock  as  time  goes  on,  but  at  present 
the  Northern  California  Black  stock  is  the  favorite  and  most 
of  the  orchards  where  this  stock  has  been  used  produce  vigorous 
young  trees.  It  will  take  many  years  to  demonstrate  the  best 
stock  to  use  under  our  varied  conditions. 

The  advantages  of  the  Northern  California  Black  stock 
are  that  you  get  a  large  percentage  of  germination  of  nuts,  the 
trees  are  vigorous  growers,  and  tend  to  be  fairly  uniform.  The 
union  with  the  young  scion  seems  to  be  satisfactory.  The 
American  Black  has  been  tried  in  certain  localities  with  success. 
It  is  not  as  rapid  a  grower,  and  it  is  harder  to  germinate  the 
seed.  Possibly  some  of  the  hybrid  trees  will  be  found  valuable. 

Age  of  Tree. 

In  purchasing  trees  one  should  try  to  secure  good,  strong, 
straight  one-year-old  trees.  It  is  very  easy  to  get  such  trees 
from  six  to  eight  feet  in  height,  which  show  plenty  of  vigor. 

Setting  of  Trees — Planting  the  Orchard. 

Before  planting  the  orchard,  the  ground  should  be  very 
thoroughly  plowed  and  harrowed  and  put  into  good  tilth  condi- 
tion. The  trees  should  be  set  from  forty  to  sixty  feet  apart. 
When  trees  are  set  at  a  distance  as  great  as  sixty  feet,  it  should 
be  only  where  the  soil  is  extremely  rich,  or  where  one  plans  to 
intercrop  or  use  fillers  extensively.  With  many  soils,  a  distance 
of  forty  feet  is  ample,  while  fifty  feet  is  a  distance  preferred 
by  many  growers.  The  hole  should  be  dug  sufficiently  wide 
to  accommodate  the  roots  nicely,  and  deep  enough  to  allow  the 
filling  in  of  some  good  top  soil  and  the  setting  of  the  tree  from 
two  to  four  inches  deeper  than  it  was  in  the  nursery  row.  When 
setting,  all  broken  or  decayed  roots  should  be  cut  off  with  a 
good  sharp  knife.  Where  the  tap  root  has  been  severed,  a 
good  straight  cut  should  be  made.  Formerly  it  was  argued 
that  walnuts  would  not  grow  if  the  tap  root  was  injured.  This 
has  been  proved  to  be  a  fallacy,  as  the  thousands  of  acres  of 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


21 


c 

c/3 

H 

•3 

I 


OREGON    WALNUTS 

grafted  transplanted  trees  in  the  Northwest  now  testify.  I 
would  treat  the  roots  of  the  walnuts  very  much  the  same  as 
those  of  any  fruit  tree.  While  planting  can  be  done  in  the  fall 
in  many  parts  of  the  western  and  southern  parts  of  Oregon, 
probably  late  winter  and  early  spring  would,  on  the  whole,  be 
the  most  desirable.  Some  men  have  advocated  that,  instead 
of  planting  trees,  nuts  be  planted  in  the  field  where  the  orchard 
is  to  be  developed;  that  three  to  five  nuts  be  planted  in  holes 
where  the  tree  is  desired  and  all  but  the  strongest  of  these  seed- 
lings be  discarded.  I  have  never  seen  a  good  orchard  developed 
in  this  way  and  doubt  its  practicability.  It  certainly  is  more 
expensive  and  harder  to  take  care  of  young  seedlings  scattered 
over  a  forty-acre  field,  than  it  would  be  to  have  them  in  compact 
rows  in  the  nursery,  where  they  could  have  the  best  of  care. 

There  are  various  systems  of  planting  the  orchard.  Where 
the  filler  system  is  to  be  used,  the  setting  of  the  trees  by  what  is 
known  as  the  quincunx  system  is  perhaps  the  best.  In  this 
system  the  trees  are  set  in  fives,  the  permanent  plantings  being 
in  the  form  of  squares  or  rectangles,  and  the  filler  being  the 
tree  which  is  planted  in  the  center  of  the  square.  About  75  per 
cent  more  trees  can  be  planted  by  this  system  than  by  the  square 
or  rectangular.  The  square  or  rectangular  system  is  the  best 
where  one  wishes  to  intercrop  extensively;  or  where  it  is  the 
aim  of  the  orchardists  to  grow  truck  crops,  berries  or  similar 
crops,  this  system  will  prove  the  more  satisfactory.  It  does 
not  give  as  many  trees  to  the  acre,  neither  are  the  trees  equally 
distant,  but  it  does  allow  for  tillage  better  than  any  other 
system. 

The  last  system  is  known  as  the  hexagonal.  In  this  system 
the  trees  are  set,  as  you  might  say,  in  circles  of  six,  with  a  tree 
in  the  center  of  each  circle.  The  trees  are  all  equally  distant,  as 
they  are  planted  the  radius  of  the  circle  apart.  This  system  does 
not  allow  for  tillage  or  intercropping  as  well  as  the  two  first 
systems. 

There  are  three  systems  of  pruning  the  young  trees.  In  the 
first  system,  I  wish  to  describe,  the  trees  are  cut  back  when  they 
are  planted  to  two  or  three  buds.  These  buds  are  allowed  to 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


23 


Tree  headed  too  high. 


force  out  shoots  in  the  spring 
and  after  they  have  made  a  suf- 
ficient growth  to  determine 
which  one  of  the  three  is  the  best, 
the  other  two  are  removed.  The 
one  remaining  shoot  is  then  tied 
securely  to  a  stake,  so  that  it  will 
not  be  broken  or  injured  in  any 
way.  In  the  second  spring  this 
tree  is  re-headed  to  a  height  of 
about  forty-eight  inches  and  the 
heading  formed  so  as  to  have  the 
main  branches  spaced  as  widely 
apart  as  possible.  This  system 
is  a  fairly  easy  one  for  the  aver- 
age man  to  handle. 

The  second  method  is  to  head 

the  trees  much  the  same  as  our  apple  trees ;  say,  twenty-five  to 

thirty  inches  in  height  and  the  main  head  is  formed  the  first 

summer.  With  this  system,  how- 
ever, extremely  good  staking  and 

tying  must  be  followed,  or  the 

head    will    not    be    satisfactory. 

This   system   is  a  superior  one 

for  the  expert  horticulturist. 
The  third  system  is  to  train 

the  trees  to  whip   for  three  or 

four  years,  allowing  no  laterals 

to  grow  until  that  time.     This 

was  formerly  the  most  popular 

system  in  the  Northwest,  but  is 

gradually  going  out  as  it  makes 

the  trees  too  high-headed,   and 

makes  it  very  difficult  to  stake 

and  tie  the  main  scaffold 

branches  satisfactorily.  English 


ittl 


headed  too  high 


24 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


•'  H^f 

i 


Well  kept  orchard  with  prune  trees  as  fillers. 

All  walnut  trees  need  thorough  staking.  A  good  strong 
post  should  be  set  that  will  stand  at  least  seven  feet  out  of  the 
ground.  During  the  first  two  or  three  years  of  the  tree's  life,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  do  considerable  tying  in  order  to  prevent 

drooping  over  too  much.  Tying 
with  broad  strips  of  cloth,  bed 
ticking,  or  similar  material,  is 
preferable  and  each  individual 
main  scaffold  branch  should  be 
tied  to  the  stake.  Care  should 
be  taken  not  to  tie  the  branches 
so  close  to  the  stake  as  to  cause 
them  to  grow  too  upright. 

The  tillage  of  young  walnut 
orchards  is  very  much  the  same 
as  that  practiced  in  our  young 
apple  and  pear  orchards.  Much 
plowing  and  harrowing  should 
be  practiced  in  early  spring  and 

American     Black    Walnut     Tree     the  ground  placed  in  such  condi- 
topped    with    English.       Poor     ..         ,,      ,    .,  ,    i          j    u   TJ 

practice  to  use  so  old  a  tree,    tion  that  it  can  catch  and  hold 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


25 


Trees  planted  too  close  together,  crowding  tops 

the  spring  rains.  At  frequent  intervals  the  ground  should  be 
harrowed,  so  that  no  weeds  are  allowed  to  grow  and  the  ground 
prevented  from  packing  and  cracking.  These  frequent  shallow 
harrowings  should  follow  at  short  intervals  until  such  time  as 
the  young  trees  have  made  satisfactory  growth,  which  should 
normally  be  from  the  middle  of  July  to  the  middle  of  August. 
In  our  older  orchards,  it  will  probably  be  necessary  to  continue 
tillage  later  in  the  fall,  because  if  we  do  not  hold  the  moisture, 
the  tree's  vitality  may  be  affected,  or  there  may  be  a  tendency 
for  the  nuts  not  to  fill  well.  Where  trees  do  not  start  well  the 
first  year  or  two,  it  may  pay  to  give  each  tree  a  couple  of  buck- 
ets of  water  some  time  during  early  summer.  The  trees  should 
be  hoed  soon  after  such  watering. 

Where  irrigation  is  practiced,  it  should  be  followed  as  is 
generally  done  with  the  fruit  trees.  One  should  take  care  not 
to  have  the  water  come  in  contact  with  the  bodies  of  the  young 
trees.  Pools  of  water  should  not  be  allowed  to  stand  close 
around  the  trees  for  any  length  of  time.  In  irrigating,  care 
should  be  taken  to  get  plenty  of  water  down  in  the  sub-soils  to 
encourage  deep  rooting  of  the  trees.  Irrigation  should  not, 
however,  take  the  place  of  tillage.  The  two  must  go  hand  in 
hand  if  the  best  results  are  to  be  secured.  Where  one  is  depen- 


26  OREGONWALNUTS 

dent  to  a  large  extent  upon  artificial  water,  the  sub-soil  should 
be  examined  and  never  allowed  to  get  so  dry  that  when  a  por- 
tion of  the  sub-soil  is  pressed  tightly  in  the  hand,  and  the  fingers 
removed,  the  soil  naturally  falls  apart.  After  each  irrigation,  a 
great  deal  of  tillage  should  follow. 

As  yet  most  of  our  orchards  in  the  Northwest  are  so  young 
that  artificial  fertilization  has  never  been  resorted  to  to  any 
great  extent.  Where  trees  are  lacking  in  vigor,  or  where  the 
land  planted  to  orchard  has  been  in  grain  for  many  years,  it 
will  often  be  found  advisable  to  add  stable  compost  where  it  can 
be  obtained  cheap  and  in  large  quantities.  One  cannot  afford 
to  pay  much  for  such  fertilizer,  however,  nor  will  it  pay  to  haul 
it  far.  I  doubt  if  it  will  pay  the  average  grower  to  try  the 
commercial  fertilizers.  Experiment  stations,  from  time  to 
time,  are  trying  out  such  plant  foods.  It  is  only  by  careful 
experiments  that  one  can  demonstrate  the  real  value  of  any 
element.  Cover  crops  often  can  be  sources  of  material  aid  to 
the  orchard.  These  should  be  planted  the  latter  part  of  August 
or  very  early  in  September.  Under  average  conditions,  the 
seed  should  be  drilled  in  at  the  rate  of  about  forty  pounds  of 
forage,  or  Oregon  vetch,  to  about  ten  to  twelve  pounds  of  oats 
or  rye.  It  is  essential  that  the  seed  be  drilled  in  and  be  planted 
early. 

Inter-Cropping  and  Use  of  Fillers. 

Since  the  walnut  trees  are  planted  so  far  apart — forty  or 
fifty  feet — there  is  a  considerable  waste  of  ground  the  first  ten 
years  of  the  orchard's  life.  The  question  which  confronts  every 
walnut  grower  is  how  he  can  best  utilize  this  area  between  the 
trees,  so  as  to  bring  in  some  cash  return.  As  far  as  soil  and 
care  of  the  trees  is  concerned,  the  best  type  of  crops  to  grow  is 
truck  garden  crops,  such  as  beans,  peas,  squash,  melons ;  small 
fruits,  such  as  strawberries,  currants,  and  gooseberries;  and  it 
would  even  be  possible  to  use  some  cane  fruits,  such  as  raspber- 
ries, and  some  men  have  tried  such  crops  as  loganberries.  Strips 
of  hay,  especially  vetch  hay,  consisting  of  a  mixture  of  vetch 
and  oats,  can  be  used  to  advantage  by  many  growers,  since  in 
this  way  sufficient  forage  can  be  raised  for  the  horses  that  are 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


27 


Well  headed  tree.     Properly 
pruned  would  become  ideal. 


necessary  to  carry  on  the  orchard 
work;  but  where  strips  of  hay  or 
grain  are  grown  between  the 
trees,  it  is  advisable  to  leave 
clean  tilled  strips  on  either  side; 
otherwise,  the  trees  will  become 
stunted. 

It  will  be  well  for  some  of  the 
walnut  growers  in  western  and 
southern  Oregon  to  consider  the 
possibility  of  handling  hogs  in 
connection  with  the  orchards. 
Such  crops  as  cow-horn  turnips, 
Aberdeen  turnips,  rape  and 
vetch,  can  be  planted  by  the  mid- 
dle of  July  and  should  make  a 
most  excellent  winter  feed.  It 
would  not  be  advisable  to  keep  a 
large  number  of  hogs  on  heavy, 
poorly  drained  soils.  On  the 
average  rolling  soils,  this  system 
is  practiced  and  is  being  used  by 
a  number  of  growers. 

The  excess  stock  of  hogs  is 
generally  turned  off  in  early 
spring  and  this  is  a  time  when 
prices  are  generally  quite  satis- 
factory. If  the  orchardist  has 
some  spare  land  that  he  can  raise 
grain  on,  so  as  to  obtain  large 
quantities  of  wheat  screenings, 
it  may  be  found  possible  to  pro- 
duce cheap  pork.  It  is  not  ad- 
visable, under  ordinary  condi- 
tions, to  grow  large  quantities 
Of  grain  among  young  trees.  Tree  with  weak  crotches  account 
0  J  branches  all  coming  out  at  one 

It    is    only    orchards    that    are       point. 


28 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


J 


Walnut  Tree  with  a  good  spread. 


growing  too  vigorously  that  can  stand  such  treatment  safely. 

Some  men  prefer  using  fillers  to  inter-cropping.  The  ideal 
filler  for  the  young  walnut  is  the  Italian  prune,  a  small,  com- 
pact tree  which  will  enable  the  orchardist  to  get  a  number  of 
paying  crops  before  it  becomes  necessary  to  take  out  the  trees. 
After  the  walnut  begins  to  get  large,  however,  it  will  crowd  the 
prunes,  and  it  will  only  be  a  question  of  time  before  the  vitality 
of  the  prune  trees  becomes  so  low  that  it  will  be  advisable  to 
take  them  out. 

Walnut  culture  lends  itself  to  general  farming.  As  the 
trees  require  very  little  spraying  and  not  much  unusual  atten- 
tion, the  average  farmer  should  be  able  to  meet  with  a  fair 
degree  of  success  with  this  crop.  Walnut  culture  also  combines 
itself  very  nicely  with  certain  crop  combinations.  For  example, 
berries,  prunes  and  walnuts  would  make  a  most  excellent  com- 
bination. The  berries — such  as  black  caps,  or  loganberries, 
could  be  evaporated.  Later  the  prunes  could  be  handled  in  the 
same  evaporator.  Finally,  the  nuts  could  be  dried  in  the  same 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


29 


building.  Thus  one  would  be  securing  better  returns  for  the 
investment  in  the  evaporator.  A  certain  amount  of  general 
farming  and  handling  of  chickens  and  hogs  would  lend  itself 
nicely  to  this  above  named  combination.  With  the  family  cow 
and  a  good  garden,  such  a  combination  should  very  largely 
meet  the  requirements  of  the  family  table  and,  at  the  same  time, 
bring  in  a  splendid  cash  income. 

Where  irrigation  is  possible,  it  would  be  advisable  to  at- 
tempt to  grow  such  crops  as  clover  after  the  orchard  has  come 
into  bearing,  watering  it  sufficiently  to  produce  both  clover  and 
walnuts  abundantly.  The  clover  could  either  be  turned  into 
hay  or  could  be  pastured  over  by  live  stock,  such  as  sheep,  for 
example. 

The  walnut  should  be  more  adopted  as  a  home  tree.  It 
makes  a  most  excellent  shade  tree  for  the  yard,  and  can  be 
developed  into  a  satisfactory  street  tree;  but  where  this  is  at- 
tempted, I  would  advise  the  growth  of  first,  the  American 
Black,  or  California  Black,  and  later  the  top-working  of  such 
trees  to  selected  English  strains.  Thousands  of  trees  in  the 
state  have  been  so  top-worked  and  are  becoming  very  valuable. 

Where  walnuts  are  used  as  home 
or  street  trees,  care  should  be 
taken  not  to  crowd  them  very 
much  with  such  trees  as  maples, 
oaks,  etc.,  as  invariably  the  wal- 
nut does  not  seem  to  thrive  as 
well  under  such  conditions  as 
when  it  has  plenty  of  room. 

Pruning. 

We  have  already  treated  the 
subject  of  pruning  at  the  time  of 
setting  the  trees.  After  the  trees 
have  made  their  first  year's 
growth,  one  should  choose  the 
branches  which  are  to  form 
the  framework  of  the  trees. 
Walnuts  on  the  trees.  Four  or  five  branches  should  be 


30 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


Prince  Dryers,  Dundee,  Oregon. 

chosen  and  it  is  advisable  to  have  these  spaced  as  far  apart  as 
practicable,  and  I  would  suggest  heading  them  back  in  about 
the  same  way  as  one  would  head  back  the  apple,  pear,  and  prune 
trees,  cutting  the  strongest  branches  back  the  most  and  the 
weakest  ones  the  least.  In  this  way  we  will  constantly  encour- 
age the  weaker  branches  and  bring  the  trees  to  a  better  balance. 

In  forming  the  scaffold  branches  of  your  tree,  try  to  choose 
branches  that  will  not  form  a  poor  angle  with  the  trunk.  Such 
branches  are  very  apt  to  split  off  by  the  end  of  the  second  year. 

It  will  be  advisable  to  give  the  trees  annual  pruning.  The 
general  tendency  of  many  of  the  English  walnuts  is  to  grow 
decidedly  one-sided,  one  or  two  branches  growing  much  more 
vigorously  than  the  rest.  These  very  strong  branches  should 
be  decidedly  checked — cut  back  hard,  so  as  to  force  out  the 
weaker  and  smaller  branches.  By  this  persistent  heading  back 
the  first  two  or  three  years,  you  will  force  out  abundant  laterals 
which  will  give  you  plenty  of  wood  to  choose  from  in  building 
up  a  strong  tree,  one  having  plenty  of  bearing  surface.  If  the 
trees  are  allowed  to  go  unchecked,  they  will  not  only  become 
one-sided,  but  you  will  have  long  naked  branches  with  very  few 
bearing  laterals.  The  amount  of  wood  that  can  be  cut  from 
any  tree  must  vary  according  to  the  growth  it  has  secured. 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


31 


32  OREGON    WALNUTS 

Some  branches  will  be  shortened  to  eight  or  twelve  inches,  while 
with  others  it  will  be  advisable  to  let  them  grow  from  twelve 
to  twenty  inches,  according  to  the  balance  of  the  tree.  It  will 
be  necessary  each  year  to  thin  out  a  few  of  the  undesirable 
branches  that  form  bad  angles,  or  have  a  tendency  to  grow 
inward. 

After  the  trees  come  to  bearing,  about  the  only  pruning 
necessary  will  be  to  thin  out  the  trees  where  they  tend  to  become 
too  dense,  and  occasionally  suppress  some  few  of  the  leaders 
that  tend  to  become  too  rangy.  It  will  also  be  found  advisable 
during  the  first  few  years  to  shorten  back  or  remove  some  of  the 
branches  that  droop  to  the  extent  of  interfering  with  tillage. 
The  great  tendency  of  the  walnut  is  to  droop,  and  no  matter 
how  well  the  trees  are  trained,  one  will  always  have  to  remove  a 
certain  number  of  drooping  branches. 

Pruning  should  be  done  preferably  after  the  danger  of 
serious  freezing  is  over  and  before  the  sap  starts  to  flowing 
strongly  in  the  spring.  For  western  Oregon,  February  is  gen- 
erally a  very  suitable  month  for  walnut  pruning. 

Diseases. 

There  are  a  number  of  diseases  that  attack  the  English  wal- 
nut. The  most  serious  of  these  is  the  walnut  blight,  known 
scientifically  as  Bacteriosis.  This  is  a  bacterial  disease  and  is 
probably  carried  by  insects.  Its  first  appearance  is  noted  in 
early  spring.  On  the  leaves  it  starts  in  the  form  of  black  spots 
which  enlarge  and  generally  cause  some  malformation  of  the 
leaves,  those  attacked  often  bending  towards  the  area  affected. 
Black  patches  will  appear  on  the  outer  bark,  often  causing  a 
drying  up  of  the  young  twigs  and  fruit  spurs,  killing  them  back 
to  the  main  branches.  The  damage  to  the  tree,  however,  at 
least  in  Oregon,  is,  as  a  rule,  not  serious ;  especially  is  this  true 
of  the  better  French  strains.  The  greater  damage  comes  from 
the  attack  on  the  nuts.  Small,  black,  irregular  spots  which 
spread  quite  rapidly  appear  on  the  surface  of  the  nut.  When 
these  appear  soon  after  the  young  nuts  are  formed,  they  will 
generally  cause  a  large  dropping  of  the  fruit.  Those  nuts 
which  do  not  drop  often  have  their  meats  ruined  by  black  decay. 


OREGONWALNUTS  33 


Young  walnut  orchard  with  strawberries  between  rows 

Where  the  attack  appears  later  in  the  season  it  will  cause  por- 
tions of  the  hull  to  dry,  blacken  and  shrivel,  and  may  cause  some 
premature  dropping  of  the  nuts  near  the  harvesting  period,  and 
even  though  it  may  not  destroy  the  meats,  it  often  makes  the 
nuts  unsalable,  as  it  tends  to  discolor  the  shells.  The  disease 
varies  according  to  climatic  conditions,  being  much  worse  some 
seasons  than  others.  The  early  blooming  varieties  are  gener- 
ally more  attacked  than  the  later  blooming  ones.  This  is  espe- 
cially true  under  California  conditions. 

There  is  no  known  remedy  other  than  cutting  out  and  de- 
stroying the  affected  parts.  A  recent  survey  which  the  author 
made  revealed  the  fact  that  it  seemed  to  be  a  general  rule  this 
past  year  that  the  young  walnut  trees  which  were  rather  low  in 
vitality  were  the  ones  most  seriously  affected  by  this  disease. 

While  the  disease  certain  years  has  been  quite  bad  on  some 
trees,  nevertheless  it  is  not  of  such  a  nature  as  to  keep  one  from 
entering  the  walnut  industry.  The  best  line  of  resistance  to  the 
disease  is  in  choosing  fairly  resistant  strains,  and  giving  the 
trees  good  care. 

The  mushroom  root  rot,  which  attacks  such  fruits  as  apples 
and  pears,  also  attacks  English  walnuts.  While  it  does  not 
seem  to  attack  the  American  Black  and  California  Black  roots 


34 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


TREE  PLANTING 
Fig.  1.  Not    well    planted.     During 
dry  seasons  nuts  will  not  fill  well,  and 
will  be  bitter. 

Fig.  2.  Ground  dynamited  before- 
planting,  roots  go  down  to  permanent- 
moisture.  Drouth  and  famine  proof. 


seriously,  it  is  very  serious  on  English  roots,  and  even  where 
trees  are  grafted,  if  the  union  comes  below  the  ground,  it  may 
kill  the  tree  at  the  point  of  union.  On  this  account,  on  recently 
cleared  lands,  it  might  be  better  to  plant  the  trees  with  the 
union  exposed.  The  best  known  remedy  is  to  scrape  the  dirt 
away  from  the  affected  parts,  clean  off  decayed  portions,  and 
leave  such  portions  exposed  to  the  dry  air  for  at  least  one 
season. 

Crown  gall  has  been  reported  in  a  few  instances,  but  has  not 
been  found  to  such  an  extent  as  to  be  thought  serious. 

Shriveled  meats  is  a  problem  which  may  have  to  be  met. 
This  seems  to  be  much  more  serious  in  California  than  in  Ore- 
gon. The  shriveling,  or  drying  up  of  the  meats  in  the  shell,  may 
result  from  a  number  of  causes,  such  as  poor  pollination,  too  dry 
soil,  aphis  attacks,  or  because  the  tree  is  so  extremely  late  that 
it  does  not  have  time  to  develop  its  fruit. 

Insects. 

About  the  only  insects  needing  serious  attention  that  so  far 
have  appeared  to  attack  our  young  walnuts  are  the  San  Jose 
scale  and  the  Aphis.  Both  of  these  pests  are  very  easily  con- 
trolled and  the  same  remedies  that  are  used  for  our  fruit  trees 
suffice  to  control  these  pests. 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


35 


WALNUT  BLOSSOMS 

Fig.  1,  pistilate,  or  female  flow- 
er, comes  at  end  of  new  growth ; 
produces  walnuts  when  properly 
fertilized. 


Fig.  2,  staminate,  or  male  flow- 
er, commonly  called  catkin,  comes 
at  end  of  last  year's  growth;  pro- 
duces pollen  to  fertilize  the  pis- 
tillate. 


Pollination. 

Pollination  is  a  problem  that  may  need  some  attention.  The 
older  grafted  orchards  of  California  where  only  one  variety  is 
grown  seem  to  bear  quite  satisfactorily.  Young  trees,  how- 
ever, do  not  set  their  fruit  well.  Often  a  tree  from  four  to  six 
years  of  age  will  start  from  one  hundred  to  three  hundred  nuts, 
only  to  have  a  large  number  of  them  drop  to  the  ground  pre- 
maturely. This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  young  walnut  trees 
do  not  produce  sufficient  catkins  and,  therefore,  do  not  have  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  pollen.  After  the  trees  become  older, 
there  seems  to  be  less  trouble  from  this  source.  With  the  young 
Franquette  trees  it  is  especially  noticeable  that  the  catkins  are 
scarce  the  first  few  years,  but  by  the  time  the  trees  reach  the 
period  of  heavy  bearing,  at  seven  years,  there  are  generally 
sufficient  catkins  to  insure  a  good  crop.  With  the  Mayette,  the 
female  blossoms  sometimes  appear  before  the  male,  while  with 
the  Glady,  they  are  both  apt  to  appear  together.  Our  experi- 
ence with  fruit  has  shown  that  it  is  better  to  have  several  vari- 
eties in  an  orchard ;  that  a  larger  crop  can  generally  be  secured 
by  cross  pollination.  It  would,  therefore,  seem  wise  for  the  wal- 
nut grower  to  plant  a  few  trees  for  pollination  purposes,  even 
though  the  greater  part  of  his  orchard  consists  of  a  single  variety. 


36  OREGON    WALNUTS 

Harvesting  and  Marketing. 

As  soon  as  the  nuts  are  ripe  in  the  fall,  the  hulls  generally 
split  and  the  nuts  begin  to  drop.  It  will  be  necessary  to  make 
three  or  four  gatherings  of  the  nuts  at  intervals  of  from  three 
to  five  days  apart.  The  work  can  be  so  handled  that  it  takes 
about  five  days  to  make  one  picking,  and  then  the  crew  can 
start  over  the  orchard  the  second  time.  During  the  first  pick- 
ing, it  is  unwise  to  shake  the  trees  vigorously,  as  such  shaking  is 
very  apt  to  cause  immature  nuts  to  fall.  Many  nuts  still  have 
their  husks  tightly  sealed  and  they  will  drop  if  the  tree  is  shaken 
vigorously.  Bamboo  poles  with  hooks  can  be  used  to  jar  the 
branches.  Care  must  be  taken,  however,  not  to  bruise  or  injure 
the  branches  with  the  hooks. 

At  the  second  picking,  it  will  be  well  to  shake  the  trees  some- 
what, but  no  attempt  should  be  made  to  remove  all  the  nuts  at 
this  time. 

At  the  third  picking,  nearly  all  the  remaining  nuts  should 
be  properly  matured.  However,  in  the  seedling  orchards  there 
is  a  wide  period  of  maturity.  In  fact,  a  few  trees  never  mature 
their  nuts  properly. 

Some  of  the  growers  have  each  picker  carry  two  pails.  In 
one  they  place  the  culled  nuts,  and  those  to  which  the  hull 
strongly  adheres.  In  the  second,  the  well  matured  nuts,  those 
free  from  hulls.  The  two  grades  are  kept  separate  in  sacks  as 
they  are  brought  to  the  washer. 

Some  growers  have  found  that  often  those  nuts  which  have 
not  shed  their  hulls  will  do  so  in  a  few  days  and  make  a  prac- 
tice of  throwing  them  up  near  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  gathering 
them  the  second  time.  However,  there  will  always  be  some  nuts 
that  will  never  shed  their  hulls  and  are  practically  worthless  for 
commerce.  It  does  not  pay  to  try  to  pull  the  hulls  off  by  hand, 
as  small  portions  are  apt  to  stick  to  the  nuts,  and  even  though 
the  hull  is  removed,  the  nuts  are  apt  to  remain  discolored.  Such 
nuts  are  also  often  poorly  filled. 

The  nuts  should  not  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  sacks  very 
long  because,  in  their  damp  condition,  mold  will  start  very 
rapidly. 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


37 


DETAILS   OF  WALNUT  CRAFTING 


Some  growers  make  a  practice  of  picking  one  day  and 
washing  and  starting  drying  the  next.  In  the  early  morning  of 
the  second  day  the  nuts  are  washed.  This  is  done  to  remove 
dirt,  mold,  fiber,  or  any  foreign  material.  Some  of  the  small 
growers  have  used  ordinary  churns ;  others  have  placed  the  nuts 
in  large  wooden  trays,  which  are  dipped  in  troughs  of  water — 
the  trays  being  churned  up  and  down  in  the  water  until  the  nuts 


38  OREGON    WALNUTS 

are  clean.  Some  men  are  using  the  prune  dippers  and  washers 
quite  satisfactorily.  It  will  be  necessary,  however,  to  use  a 
broom  to  help  wash  the  nuts,  and  it  is  well  to  have  a  false  bot- 
tom in  the  water  container.  This  will  allow  the  fiber  to  settle 
below  the  false  bottom.  The  fiber  is  often  quite  plentiful— 
from  one  to  two  boxes  sometimes  being  secured  from  a  ton  of 
nuts.  Poor  nuts  can  often  be  picked  out  as  they  are  passing 
through  the  machine. 

It  is  well  to  start  drying  as  soon  as  the  nuts  are  washed  and 
a  temperature  of  at  least  70  degrees  should  be  maintained.  The 
best  temperature  varies  from  70  to  90  degrees.  Below  70  de- 
grees the  mold  will  develop.  Above  90  degrees,  there  is  danger 
of  causing  the  seams  to  break — and  there  is  the  additional  dan- 
ger of  breaking  down  the  oil  in  the  nuts,  which  will  later  cause 
them  to  become  rancid. 

It  will  take  two  days  and  nights  to  dry  the  nuts  thoroughly. 
If  they  can  be  placed  in  the  dryer  in  the  early  morning,  they  can 
often  be  dried  sufficiently  the  first  day,  so  that  it  will  be  safe 
to  let  the  fire  go  out  at  night.  If  no  night  firing  is  done  it  will 
take  four  or  five  days  to  dry  the  nuts. 

The  numerous  prune  dryers  can  be  used  for  the  drying  of 
nuts.  However,  if  one  were  equipping  a  building  especially  for 
handling  walnuts,  it  would  probably  pay  to  introduce  some  of 
the  improved  California  machinery  for  washing  and  grading, 
and  the  drying  rooms  should  be  built  on  the  kiln  type. 

Occasionally  nuts  can  be  dried  out  of  doors,  but  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  have  them  exposed  to  a  temperature  greater 
than  90  degrees,  and  it  will  be  necessary  to  cover  them  at  night 
on  account  of  the  excessive  dampness  in  the  fall  of  the  year. 

As  soon  as  the  nuts  are  dried,  they  should  be  placed  in  a 
cool,  dry  place,  where  they  will  keep  until  ready  for  the  market. 

As  yet  very  little  bleaching  of  the  nuts  has  been  practiced  in 
Oregon.  The  trade  has  taken  all  nuts  just  as  they  have  been 
washed  and  dried  and  has  paid  the  top  price  for  them.  It 
would  be  well  for  us,  indeed,  to  encourage  this  tendency.  While 
bleaching  whitens  the  shells,  it  is  a  question  as  to  whether  it  can 
be  done  without  causing  the  quality  of  the  nuts  to  deteriorate. 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


39 


The  result  of  proper  care. 

Where  bleaching  is  to  be  done,  the  following  is  a  solution  used 
in  California: 

6  pounds  Bleaching  Powder  (Chlorate  of  Lime) 
12  pounds  Sal  Soda 
50  gallons  Water. 

First,  the  bleaching  powder  should  be  dissolved  in  a  small 
quantity  of  water — three  or  four  gallons.  Mixture  should  be 
stirred  until  the  powder  is  dissolved.  In  a  separate  container, 
holding  a  few  gallons  of  water,  dissolve  the  Sal  Soda.  Mix  the 
two  solutions  and  stir  well,  and  allow  it  to  stand  until  the  Car- 
bonate of  Lime  settles  in  the  bottom.  The  clear  liquid  should 
be  drawn  off  and  diluted  with  water  so  as  to  make  fifty  gallons. 
The  nuts  are  placed  in  dipping  boxes,  are  immersed  in  the  fluid, 
and  then  one  and  one-fourth  pounds  of  50  per  cent  Sulphuric 
Acid  is  added.  The  liquid  is  agitated  by  raising  and  lowering 
the  dipper.  In  from  five  to  ten  seconds  the  nuts  should  be  suf- 
ficiently bleached  and  should  then  be  rinsed  in  clear  water  and 
dried.  There  are  mechanical  contrivances  for  doing  this  work. 
The  same  liquid  can  be  used  as  long  as  it  gives  results.  Occa- 
sionally it  is  necessary  to  bleach  the  nuts  more  than  once. 

As  soon  as  the  nuts  have  been  thoroughly  dried,  they  should 
be  graded.  Up  to  the  present  time,  Oregon  orchardists  have 


40  OREGON    WALNUTS 

been  able  to  sell  their  nuts  without  grading,  but  as  the  crop  in- 
creases, grading  should  be  established,  and  probably  will  be 
demanded  by  the  purchaser.  Generally,  at  least  two  sizes  are 
made.  First,  those  nuts  which  will  not  pass  through  a  one-inch 
mesh;  and,  second,  those  which  will  pass  through  a  mesh  not 
larger  than  one  inch  and  not  smaller  than  three-fourths  of  an 
inch. 

There  are  mechanical  contrivances  for  doing  this  grading. 
Buyers  will  often  crack  one  hundred  nuts  taken  at  random  from 
various  sacks,  and  if  about  ninety  per  cent  of  these  are  well 
selected,  are  of  the  proper  color,  and  properly  dried,  they  will 
generally  purchase  them  as  first  class  nuts. 

After  the  nuts  have  been  graded,  they  should  be  stored  until 
marketed,  and  should  be  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  For  market- 
ing they  can  be  put  up  in  the  small  cartons,  or  can  be  sacked  in 
gunny  sacks  holding  about  fifty  pounds. 

Variety. 

The  question  of  the  best  variety,  or  varieties,  to  plant  is  a 
very  important  one,  and  it  is  the  hardest  question  for  us  to  at- 
tempt to  answer  in  Oregon  at  this  time.  This  is  due  to  the  fact 
that  such  a  small  percentage  of  our  orchards  have  reached  full 
bearing. 

We  have  not,  as  yet,  secured  the  ideal  nut,  perhaps  we  never 
will.  We  need  one  which  should  approach  the  following  stand- 
ard: of  good  size,  tightly  sealed,  handsome  color,  and  not  too 
rough.  The  shell  should  be  just  thick  enough  to  stand  han- 
dling. The  kernel  should  fill  the  shell  thoroughly,  should  be 
heavy  and  have  a  light  pellicle.  The  variety  should  be  a  good 
pollen  producer,  a  vigorous  grower,  and  free  from  blight. 
These  are  just  a  fewr  characteristics  that  come  to  my  mind  off- 
hand. There  are  doubtless  others.  Possibly  it  is  too  much  to 
expect  all  in  one  nut.  To  use  the  familiar  idiom,  we  should 
certainly  be  getting  everything  in  a  nut  shell. 

At  the  present  time,  the  Franquette  seems  to  be  the  best  nut 
we  have,  and  the  Mayette  is  very  promising.  These  two  are  the 
most  desirable  varieties  at  the  present  time.  Undoubtedly, 
however,  we  should  obtain  one  or  two  very  favorable  strains  of 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


41 


42  OREGONWALNUTS 

walnuts  from  the  large  number  of  seedlings  that  have  been 
planted.  While  the  growers  are  planting  the  Franquette  more 
than  all  others  combined,  it  is  wise  to  plant  a  few  other  varieties 
for  pollination  purposes.  This  is  regardless  of  whether  the 
Franquette  is  self-fertile  or  not,  since  our  work  with  tree  fruits 
points  conclusively  to  the  fact  that  we  get  better  returns  where 
we  provide  for  cross  pollination.  It  would,  therefore,  seem 
advisable  for  the  grower  to  plant  a  few  of  the  better  varieties  as 
pollinators,  even  if  not  more  than  one  tree  to  the  acre  were  used. 

Franquette. 

This  is  a  very  old  nut.  It  has  been  grown  commercially  for 
over  a  hundred  years.  There  are  numerous  strains,  but  the  so- 
called  Vrooman  is  probably  superior  to  most  other  strains.  The 
Franquette  is  a  high  quality  nut,  is  a  good  vigorous  tree  and  a 
regular  bearer.  It  does  not  bear  heavily  while  very  young,  and 
one  should  not  expect  big  returns  before  the  seventh  year.  At 
the  best,  the  variety  is  only  a  medium  bearer. 

While  attacked  with  blight,  it  is  seemingly  as  resistant  as 
any  of  the  varieties  grown. 

Mayette. 

The  Mayette  is  a  nut  of  superb  quality.  It  is  the  Grenoble 
nut  of  commerce,  is  of  ideal  commercial  shape  and  quality.  Its 
greatest  drawback  in  Oregon  seems  to  be  its  light  yielding 
qualities  in  many  cases  and  its  questionable  vigor.  There  is, 
however,  a  possibility  that  we  have  not  secured  the  best  strains 
as  yet  in  this  state.  There  are  a  few  growers  who  speak  very 
highly  of  this  variety.  Mr.  Forbes  of  Forest  Grove  thinks  it  a 
better  yielder  and  more  vigorous  than  the  Franquette.  The 
vigorous  Sturgis  tree  is  well  known. 

If  one  could  be  sure  of  getting  the  proper  strains,  the  May- 
ette ought  to  be  a  profitable  nut  to  plant,  but  at  present  we  ad- 
vise conservative  plantings. 

There  are  numerous  other  nuts  which  might  be  tried  on  a 
limited  scale.  The  Kirk,  which  originated  at  Brownsville,  is  a 
very  heavy  yielder,  a  good  grower,  and  of  good  quality.  Its 
most  serious  drawback,  however,  is  that  quite  a  percentage  of 
the  nuts  are  not  tightly  enough  sealed. 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


43 


Where  the  walnuts  are  dried. 

The  Meylan  is  a  nut  of  much  promise — one  of  the  hand- 
somest nuts  we  produce  and  of  good  quality.  It  has  not  been 
grown  extensively,  but  indicates  that  it  is  rather  a  light  bearer. 

The  Glady  is  a  very  large  nut  of  good  quality,  but  the  mar- 
ket does  not  favor  large  nuts  with  rough  shells. 

The  Eureka,  Concord,  and  Wiltz  have  been  tried  on  a  very 
small  scale.  The  first  two  so  far  have  not  been  very  promising, 
but  possibly  will  show  up  better  when  more  trees  come  into 
bearing. 

There  are  many  conflicting  reports  concerning  the  Wiltz, 
but  it  is  in  the  list  which  should  be  tried  very  sparingly.  The 
soft  shell  types,  such  as  the  Santa  Barbara  and  the  Santa  Rose, 
are  not  suited  to  the  climatic  conditions  in  Oregon.  They  are  a 
type  of  nuts  which  should  be  confined  very  largely  to  Southern 
California. 

The  French  strains  are  seemingly  the  only  ones  that  it  is 
safe  for  us  to  plant  extensively. 

It  is  too  early  to  be  able  to  state  just  what  the  yields  and 
profits  from  English  walnut  growing  in  Oregon  will  be.  We 
know  there  is  a  tree  in  Northern  California  that  has  produced 
712  pounds  of  nuts  in  a  single  year,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to 
hear  of  trees  producing  more  than  200  pounds  of  nuts.  These 


44 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


trees,  however,  are  extremely 
rare,  and  while  there  are  many 
orchards  which,  in  a  single  year, 
will  produce  a  ton  or  more  of 
marketable  nuts  per  acre,  it  will 
be  safer  for  the  investor  to  plan 
on  a  lower  average;  say,  1,000  or 
1,200  pounds  per  acre.  These  nuts 
will  sell  for  from  13  to  30  cents 
per  pound,  according  to  present 
prices,  the  same  depending  upon 
the  grade  of  the  product. 

As  to  how  much  money  can 
be  made  from  the  business,  it 
will  depend  upon  the  initial  price 
of  land,  the  acreage  developed 
and  the  relation  of  the  walnut  or- 
chard to  other  fruits,  or  general 
farm  crops.  The  larger  the  acreage,  other  things  being  equal, 
the  cheaper  the  production.  It  would  seem  that  with  a  combi- 
nation, including  reasonable  land  values,  economic  units,  and 
good  business  management,  one  ought  to  be  able  to  expect  a 
return  of  $100.00  per  acre.  While,  of  course,  many  will  surpass 
this,  others  will  not  reach  it.  However,  I  would  call  the  in- 
vestor's attention  to  the  fact  that  $100.00  clear  profit  means  10 
per  cent  interest  on  a  valuation  of  $1,000.00  per  acre,  and  there 
are  very  few  investments  in  the  world  that  would  yield  such  a 
figure. 


Ripe    English    Walnuts 
bursting  the  outer  shell. 


OREGONWALNUTS  45 

List  of  Principal  Walnut  Orchards  in  Western  Oregon 

NAME 


No.  of  Acres         Grafted  or 
of  Trees  Seedlings 

Matthews   Planting    Co., 

Portland,  Ore 1610.87     Seedlings. 

Skyline  Orchard  Co., 

Salem,  Ore. . .  .   203 


Age  of  Trees 
Years 


200 


65 
56 
50 
49 


Thos.  Withycombe, 
Portland,  Ore 

E.  L.  Dorn, 

Monmouth,  Ore 159 

J.  W.  Jenkins, 

Eugene,  Ore 110 

Fred  Groner, 

Hillsboro,  Ore 100 

Jesse  A.  Foster, 

Independence,  Ore. . . .   100 
Dundee  Fruit  &  Walnut 

Co.,  Dundee,  Ore 72 

C.  M.  La  Follett, 

Amity,  Ore 

J.  W.  Quackenbush, 

Eugene,  Ore 

Charles  Trunk, 

Dundee,  Ore 

Charles  McNary, 

Salem,  Ore 

F.  C.  Malpas, 
Portland,  Ore 

R.  Wenger, 

Newberg,  Ore 

F.  H.  Walgamot, 

Portland,  Ore 35 

M.  C.  Jenks, 

Tangent,  Ore 31 

James  E.  Jenks, 

Tangent,  Ore 30 

Thos.  Schoolcraft, 

Dilley,  Ore 30 

Geo.  H.  Brown, 

New  Era,  Ore 30 

Thos.  Prince, 

Dundee,  Ore 27 

H.  L.  Amoth, 

Newberg,  Ore 25 

F.  Brutmayer, 

Grants  Pass,  Ore 25 


Grafted 

Seedlings 

Seedlings 5 

Seedlings 

Grafted 1  to  7 

Seedlings 6 

Seedlings 

Grafted 1  to  7 

Grafted 2 

Seedlings  &  Graf  ted 

Seedlings  &  Grafted 4,  5,  6 

48V2      Seedlings  &  Grafted 

40          Grafted 3-5 

Grafted  &  Seedlings 7 

Grafted  &  Seedlings 2  &  3 

Budded .         4 

Grafted  &  Seedlings 7 

Grafted  &  Seedlings 8 

Grafted  &  Seedlings 

Grafted 4&5 

Grafted..  3 


46 


OREGON    WALNUTS 


NAME 


No.  of  Acres         Grafted  or 
of  Trees  Seedlings 


Age  of  Trees 
Years 


Willamette  Orchard  Co., 

Corvallis,   Ore 22V2      Grafted 6 

P.  O.  Powell, 

Monmouth,  Ore 22          Seedlings 6 

E.  S.  Greer, 

Dundee,  Ore 22          Seedlings 

Geo.  A.  Dorris, 

Springfield,   Ore. 20          Seedlings 

S.  Ames, 

Silverton,   Ore 20          Grafted 1 

L.  L.  Paget, 

Gaston,  Ore 18          Grafted 

Helen  V.  Crawford, 

Lebanon,  Ore 16          Grafted 

John  C.  Bortle, 

Portland,  Ore.  . 15          2d  Generation  Seedlings. . 

Leland  Svarvernd, 

Jefferson,  Ore 15          Seedlings 21 

S.  Lindley, 

Lebanon,  Ore 15          Grafted 

Dugald  Campbell, 

Eugene,  Ore 14          Grafted 4 

H.  A.  Kruse, 

Sherwood,  Ore 14          Grafted  &  Seedlings 

Alice  C.  Boochers, 

Lebanon,  Ore 13  7 

Dick  Kiger, 

Corvallis,  Ore 13          Grafted 4 

E.  E.  Foss, 

Talent,  Ore 13          Grafted 3  to  6 

F.  Tomek, 

Grants  Pass,  Ore 13          Grafted 

Wm.  Light, 

Dallas,  Ore 12          11 

W.  K.  Cardwell, 

Roseburg,  Ore 12          Grafted 4 

F.  B.  Harlow, 

Eugene,  Ore lO1/^      Seedlings 16 

Ira  C.  Powell, 

Monmouth,  Ore 10  Grafted  &  Seedlings 9 

D.  C.  Hafley, 

Grants  Pass,  Ore 10  Grafted 3 

J.  P.  Young, 

Sherwood,  Ore 10  Seedlings 6-10 

Will  Young, 

Sherwood,  Ore 10         Seedlings 6-8 


J\\  to  K  A  R  y 
OF  THE 


Pub.  NO.  93.     3-1-16. 


For  Information  Regarding  Railroad  Fares,  Train  Service,  Pullman  Reserva- 
tions, etc.,  Address  Any  of  the  Following: 

GENERAL  AGENTS  OR  REPRESENTATIVES. 

Atlanta,  Ga.,  80  Peachtree  St C.  M.  Evans,  G.  A. 

Baltimore,  Md.,  29  W.  Baltimore  St W.  B.  Johnson,  D.  F.  &  P.  A. 

Birmingham,  Ala.,  309-314  Brown-Marx  Bldg. C.  M.  Evans,  Gen.  Agt. 

Boston,  Mass.,  12  Milk  St J.  H.  Glynn,  New  England  Agt. 

Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  11  E.  Swan  St S.  C.  Chiles,  D.  F.  &  P.  A. 

Chicago,  111.,  55  W.  Jackson  Blvd. . W.  G.  Neimyer,  G.  A. 

Cincinnati,  Ohio,  5  E.  Fourth  St A.  G.  Little,  G.  A. 

Denver,  Colo.,  313  Ry.  Ex.  Bldg H.  F.  Kern,  G.  A. 

Detroit,  Mich.,  221  Majestic  Bldg Edward  A.  Macon,  G.  A. 

El  Paso,  Tex.,  206  Oregon  St W.  C.  McCormick,  G.  A.,  G.  H.  &  S.  A. 

Houston,  Tex J.  H.  R.  Parsons,  G.  P.  A.  Sunset  Central 

Kansas  City,  Mo.,  101  Bryant  Bldg C.  T.  Collett,  G.  A. 

Little  Rock,  Ark.,  210  Gazette  Bldg W.  H.  Wynne,  C.  A. 

Minneapolis,  Minn.,  733  Metropolitan  Life  Bldg C.  A.  David,  D.  F.  &  P.  A. 

New  Orleans,  La Jos.  Hellen,  G.  P.  A.  M.  L.  &  T. 

New  York,  N.  Y.,  39,  366,  1157  Broadway.. L.  H.  Nutting,  Gen.  East.  Pass.  Agt. 

Oklahoma  City,  Okla,,  1200  Colcord  Bldg T.  H.  Pointer,  Com.  Agt. 

Philadelphia,  Pa.,  632  Chestnut  St F.  T.  Brooks,  D.  P.  &  F.  A. 

Pittsburg,  Pa.,  Park  Bldg.,  5th  Ave.  and  Smithfield  St.  .G.  G.  Herring,  Gen.  Agt. 

Reno,  Nev.,  108  E.  Second  St J.  M.  Fulton,  A.  G.  F.  &  P.  A. 

Salt  Lake  City,  Utah,  410  Walker  Bank  Bldg C.  L.  McFaul,  D.  F.  &  P.  A. 

Seattle,  Wash.,  720  Second  Ave C.  M.  Andrews,  D.  F.  &  P.  A. 

St.  Louis,  Mo.,  1002  Olive  St Geo.  B.  Hild,  Gen.  Agt. 

Tacoma,  Wash.,  1111  Pacific  Ave C.  M.  Andrews,  D.  F.  &  P.  A. 

Tucson,  Ariz H.  C.  Hallmark,  A.  G.  F.  &  P.  A. 

Washington,  D.  C.,  911  G.  St.  N.  W., 

A.  J.  Poston,  Gen.  Agt.,  Washington-Sunset  Route 

T    ,     ,   •  ,    A  j  E.  H.  Miller,  1088  Flood  Building,  San  Francisco 

( J.  T.  Saunders,  314  Pacific  Electric  Building,  Los  Angeles 

F.  E.  Batturs,  General  Passenger  Agent San  Francisco,  Cal. 

F.  S.  McGinnis,  General  Passenger  Agent Los  Angeles,  Cal. 

Jno.  M.  Scott,  General  Passenger  Agent Portland,  Ore. 

Chas.  S.  Fee,  Passenger  Traffic  Manager San  Francisco,  Cal. 

SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


OREGON 

WALNUTS 


m 


SOUTHERN   PACIFIC 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 


This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 
on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 

KOV3    I3C5T6 

KEC'D  LD 

OCT20'65-8| 

u 

9  19o<L 

RETD    OCT  2  9  198 

LD  21A-60m-3,'65 
(F2336slO)476B 


General  Library 

University  of  California 

Berkeley 


YC 


4/ 


337312 

/L^~         1 

jjOe-u^-r-iu-j, 

4  S 

0> 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


